atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring Krone Questions

I've recently moved from RochesterTel/Frontier land to the greater Buffalo area and Verizon/BA/NYNEX/NYTel. I'm running into a bunch of Krone stuff that I haven't had to deal with before.

I did a search and found the answers to some of my questions

In posts from 2007 I learned that some blocks will allow use with a 110 blade and that on those blocks it was 'ok' to terminate 2 lines in a position, though that goes against my preferred practice. Heck I still get irritated if I see wire punched under bridge clips simply because it usually looks like a sloppy afterthought or a monkey with a screwdriver.

One thing I noticed as a difference between 110 and Krone is that on 110 the cut edge on the outside with the cable between two rows of plastic where it is easy to manage. While the Krone strips the cut edge is on the inside. It is possible that I simply have seen lots of bad LEC Krone installs with all of the 110 installs being patch panel installs.

6 years on I wonder if the Hong Kong knock off Krone tools have slipped much in quality -- I'd like to get something inexpensive but not cheap -- like my D814 or JackRapid.

The questions I didn't really get solid answers with is how do you clip into a krone block for testing/toning. What part numbers? I guess I wonder the same thing for 110, but I don't see 110 much on the voice side and it is a non-issue on data because you have jacks on both ends.

I also saw a mention that the Krone grabbed from the side while 110 did not. This didn't make sense to me since Krone, 110 and 66 are all insulation displacement connectors. I have actually taken apart a 110 jack and can confirm that the cable never reaches the bottom of the split metal portion before you hit plastic and the trim shelf. The only thing I can think of is that 110 and 66 use smooth metal to do the IDC and maybe the Krone has a rough edge.

I like 66 better because it can accommodate different gauges of wire being connected 22-24. 110 is limited to 24 or 23 but not at the same time. Using 23 in a jack designed for 24 will mess it up if you need to punch it down again, and 24 in a 23 jack would lead to intermittent connections because of insufficient displacement.

I'd appreciate the thoughts of the old hands on my musings.

Google "Krone Block Tester" and images of the needed device will be displayed. As I mentioned in the Ugly Cabling topic, Verizon and Fairpoint have switched from 66 blocks to Krones. I'm not sure why this was done. I also prefer 66's over Krones.

Maybe the switch to Krone by Verizon and other BOC's is the fact that the Krone test shoe can be used to test "both ways" without removing a wire or a bridging clip.

The tester that I was issued by Bell Atlantic has the test shoe, and 4 leads: T & R toward the CO, and T&R toward the sub. It can be pushed into, and removed from, the Krone block without disturbing the wiring. It interrupts the circuit when inserted, but intuitive employees soon realized that they could connect the two Tips and the two Rings before inserting, then put the butt set on the T & R connections, allowing them to monitor an active circuit without opening it.

There are some really inexpensive Chinese Krone-like test leads on Ebay (2 bucks, free shipping) that just go across the connection in parallel. They would be useful for monitoring, but not for testing with a meter. You need the type that has 4 leads coming out.

I use one one of these blades

Here's a photo of my test cable, the test shoe or wing, and the cheap Krone punchdown tool, what Arthur is talking about:



The test cable (Krone Part # 6647-2-906-07) and wing came from the CLEC I work for, and I think they ordered it from the LEC who got it directly from Krone company. I use it all the time to test pairs from the CO side, and occasionally from the Customer side, though I rarely find Krone blocks at the customer side. I never use the wing as I find it is easier to clip a buttset or Sidekick to the test cable. Plus it gives me 5 extra feet to comfortably hold the tester or buttset if plugged into a Krone block out of reach. The only thing I don't like about the Krone cable is how fragile the Krone connector feels. I dread the day when the tip breaks off in a Krone block. The green circuit board wafer at the end just doesn't seem like a good idea for regular use.

The punchdown tool which I got from eBay, I was surprised by how well it works. I figured it would be of cheap construction and eventually break, but I've had this one for a few years now and it works pretty darn reliably. The only thing I had happen was the screws in the handle came loose and fell out, but thankfully I found them in my toolbag. Put them back in nice and tight. I wish the hook tool that slides out of the side of the tool wasn't made of metal and instead of something insulated, like plastic. I never use the hook due to fear of shorting something out.

At some point I would like to standardize and get the Krone punchdown bit for my punchdown tool.

I have a Krone LSA-Plus plastic punch tool, I believe Sam sent it to me some years ago. I've never actually used it..AT&T still uses 66 blocks, or binding posts, or whatever they can cobble together

Igadget I am in Buffalo. I may have an extra Krone Test Lead for you. Where are you in Buffalo.

Interesting that I never saw a Krone test cable come with alligator clips. They normally come with banana plugs but I don't know everything. What I usually do is take one and cut it back to the 4 conductor cable and press on a 6pin/6pos plug so I can plug it into a regular banjo. Makes testing easier when you know the usual pins 4&5 should have dialtone from the OSP and 3&6 go to the premises.

I love Krones because of the test feature and I actually used to install them for my installations when BA or Verizon didn't provide one. Makes my life a little easier.

-Hal

Last time I did contract work I was given one with banana plugs. It was easier to clip on then having two sets of alligator clips. But I can totally see your point putting on 6p6c plug. I may have to do that. All this talk recently about Krone cables, and I jinxed myself. I just discovered my Krone cable is somehow going bad, throwing off bad stress/leakage readings and no dialtone. :=[

Getting it replaced with a new one. I might hack off the alligator clips, since I think that is the weakest part, right under the heatshrink tubing.

I didn't buy the cheap Chinese krone tool, but rather just the blade.

Since I have four punch down tools I don't have to change blades when it's a 110, 66, Krone, Bix blocks of the same jumper wire.