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 Telephone Tech Talk
 Cabling
 Wiring a 25 pair amphenol to 66 block (Page 1)
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| Author | Topic: Wiring a 25 pair amphenol to 66 block |
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chicagotechsolutions Installer Posts: 74 |
posted February 15, 2005 20:00
   
I was just doing some research about amphenol connectors. 'Cuz I know they're used in many systems to connect the KSU to a 66 block. But what kept getting me confused was the 'wiring scheme' used to connect the 25 pair cable to the 66 block. For instance, I know that the 25 pair cables contain 5 sets of 5 pairs, but when you punch the cables down on a block what order do you go in? Is there any website or document that displays a clear representation of how to do this? O yeah, also, lets say... hypothetically speaking I have a norstar 6x16 (i don't) and I need to connect the cables that go to the phones to the block. I know they connect on the right side and that (i need to use a bridging clip) they go in the regular order, but... do I skip any pairs (that go from the 25 pair cable) when I am punching down the cables or do I just go straight down the row? [This message has been edited by chicagotechsolutions (edited February 15, 2005).] IP: Logged |
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5years&counting Moderator Posts: 685 |
posted February 15, 2005 20:40
http://www.cabling-design.com/references/colorcodes/25pair.shtml The tip punches down above the ring. IP: Logged |
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chicagotechsolutions Installer Posts: 74 |
posted February 15, 2005 20:42
ah, thank you very much IP: Logged |
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clanier Installer Posts: 112 |
posted February 16, 2005 07:20
Or as I learned: While Running Backwards You Vommit and Boy Over Girl Brings Smiles IP: Logged |
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SST Installer Posts: 123 |
posted February 16, 2005 08:31
just to bend the subject a little bit. Does anyone know where I can get amphenol connector? I have an amp machine and plenty of 25-pair cable. Searching the market, I pretty much only find pre made cables. I did find one source that had a minium order of 250, thats about 200 more than I need. IP: Logged |
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kingtel Installer Posts: 49 |
posted February 16, 2005 10:23
SST, Check with Graybar. I used to purchase champ connectors from them using the Amp butterfly style crimper. M & F were both available. IP: Logged |
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test-ok Administrator Posts: 1765 |
posted February 16, 2005 11:50
I have a 25 pair amp. tool made by 3M if you need to get one. ------------------ IP: Logged |
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chicagotechsolutions Installer Posts: 74 |
posted February 16, 2005 14:06
Thanks a lot for all of your responses, I really appreciate the quick help I would was also wondering how to... IP: Logged |
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Toner Installer Posts: 279 |
posted February 16, 2005 15:58
No, you don't skip any pairs. I hope you're not punching the jack cables directly to the KSU block though. You should have your jack cables going to a separate block and use cross-connect (jumper) wire between them. IP: Logged |
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MrGemini Moderator Posts: 1065 |
posted February 16, 2005 17:26
You may want to try Anixter for your Amp ends. Always punch all pairs and lable your blocks.. And if your wall mounting use a back board! Don't just hang it on drywall or cynder block. Typically it goes from left to right: CO or(provider), system ports, and field. It's not unusual to have to vary from this as long as it's neat. Use spools or open D-rings as a cross connect bridge accross the top of your 66 blocks. Also keep in mind, 110 blocks can make for a nice clean install Larger systems are sometimes rack mounted using patch panels for system ports and field wiring. Tip=top tip-top I always glance down the 66 block after wiring but before punching from top down and make certain every 2nd clip is blue/orange/green/brown/slate. If you flipped the tip & ring you can catch it pretty quick. IP: Logged |
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KLD Installer Posts: 314 |
posted February 16, 2005 18:33
You can also buy 66 blocks with amp connectors on the side ---- plug / plug ---- your done. If your system is small and you skip pairs, what ever, there are blocks configured in groups --- plug / plug ---- your done. Check Siemons. IP: Logged |
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chicagotechsolutions Installer Posts: 74 |
posted February 16, 2005 19:33
Thank you all for the very helpful information! I greatly appreciate your help! IP: Logged |
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Bob3470 Installer Posts: 38 |
posted February 16, 2005 21:08
Dosent anyone use Bix Blocks anymore. Or dont they have them there. ------------------ IP: Logged |
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Toner Installer Posts: 279 |
posted February 16, 2005 21:40
Bob: I asked that same question a little while ago. Seems they don't like BIX down there for some unknown reason. I guess they've never seen a proper BIX install. How can you not like it? 66 blocks are so archaic and space consuming... IP: Logged |
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bikechuck Installer Posts: 79 |
posted February 17, 2005 12:06
I used to do alot of northern telcom work and was definitly bix block city. Those 66 blocks are proven technology (can you call them that) and bullet-proof which is nice. I like the fact that there is a little more room to work, wires not so dense. IP: Logged |
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KLD Installer Posts: 314 |
posted February 17, 2005 17:01
Clanier --- did you copyright that color code? I sure can use it for a guy here. The installation manuals of many systems show how a MDF should be laid out and how the blocks are to be wiried and in what color sequence. Some supply houses have give away catalogs by various suppliers that also show this (Suttle, Siemons, etc.). IP: Logged |
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Gene Installer Posts: 109 |
posted February 17, 2005 20:22
Why Run Backwards You Varmint
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Coral Tech Moderator Posts: 676 |
posted February 22, 2005 20:01
66 blocks are the way to go IMHO. If you don't have the wall space then you aren't giving your phone system the proper room anyways. Try and work on a 1000 phone install on 110. 110 looks like a damn hairball and a pain in the ass when you need to trace a jumper or god forbid you have a bad pin. IP: Logged |
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Coral Tech Moderator Posts: 676 |
posted February 22, 2005 20:03
sorry double post [This message has been edited by Coral Tech (edited February 22, 2005).] IP: Logged |
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clanier Installer Posts: 112 |
posted February 23, 2005 07:48
Clanier --- did you copyright that color code? I sure can use it for a guy here. No, it's been around alot longer than I have. IP: Logged |
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clanier Installer Posts: 112 |
posted February 23, 2005 07:49
Clanier --- did you copyright that color code? I sure can use it for a guy here. No, it's been around alot longer than I have. IP: Logged |
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clanier Installer Posts: 112 |
posted February 23, 2005 07:50
Clanier --- did you copyright that color code? I sure can use it for a guy here. No, it's been around alot longer than I have. IP: Logged |
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justbill Installer Posts: 371 |
posted February 23, 2005 10:27
Quiz: Yes they all refer to the dial tone (hot) side of a pair. The hot side of an aerial drop had a ridge on it, the right side of the protector was the hot side and the red in a quad or old type buried drop was the hot or ring side. IP: Logged |
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clanier Installer Posts: 112 |
posted February 23, 2005 11:13
And we have a winner! IP: Logged |
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Bob3470 Installer Posts: 38 |
posted February 23, 2005 12:20
But maybe it went back further than that. Where the tip and ring were part of the jack on the cord boards. IP: Logged |
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clanier Installer Posts: 112 |
posted February 23, 2005 12:29
Bob you showing your age? Now your're going to have to explain the cord board to the youngsters. IP: Logged |
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justbill Installer Posts: 371 |
posted February 23, 2005 12:36
The old cord boards, tip, ring and sleeve. We had an answerning service that had one, not to mention the old operator boards. I forgot about the B service wire (old buried drop) that also had a ridge to identify the ring side. Yes I am....old that is. IP: Logged |
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justbill Installer Posts: 371 |
posted February 23, 2005 12:39
Go to the site below for old telco equipment including cord boards. http://www.bellsystemmemorial.com/index.html IP: Logged |
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Bob3470 Installer Posts: 38 |
posted February 23, 2005 16:24
JustBill knows all about them IP: Logged |
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Station Specialties Installer Posts: 129 |
posted February 23, 2005 20:46
When you get good at it you will find doing it in reverse is faster. Starting with your V-Sl and working from the bottom up so the wires don't get in your way from the top down when you are terminating on a 66 style block. IP: Logged |
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chris02081 Installer Posts: 36 |
posted May 20, 2005 13:08
I have to seriously disagree with Coral on the look of 66 vs. 110. I have to start by saying that I think that KRONE looks the best out of ALL of then but it is WAYYYY to expensive and time onsuming to put it. IMO 110 is much easier to use especially since you have the labels to write on under the C4 or C5 clips. With 66 you have to write on the tabs and it gets so messy, plus IMO, it's easier to misswire before you punch on a 66 than a 110. IMO a 1000 pair 110 kit looks so much better and is easier to work with. I do agree with the reverse lacing though, I thinks it's always easier to put it in back to front (right to left on 110) then use the Harris "Big Bopper" (my name for it) 5 pair punch tool to terminate and cut off the pairs, 5 punchs to cut and terminate then 5 more to put the C4 or C5 clips in. Easier than the 1 by 1 with the 66. I have also never seen a BIX install so I can't comment on it. ~Chris IP: Logged |
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KLD Installer Posts: 314 |
posted May 21, 2005 19:30
Chris, me boyo, Krone should be outlawed along with Nordex. If a 66 field is set up you don't have to fight the conjestion of all the X-conn and loose connections of the BIX, Krone, etc. Work a 81c in a call center with anything BUT 66 and see what a mess you get in one year. Especially if the IT guys are playing with it! It can be a real money maker if you can stand the down-time! 
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wrichey Installer Posts: 297 |
posted May 25, 2005 20:20
"Lets say... hypothetically speaking I have a norstar 6x16" well hypothetically you should never skip pairs but if this is in ref to what pins the exts are on it should only be the first 16 but lets say its a cics or mics then yes you will need to skip pins according to what you need C.O. lines run in pairs and skip in pairs thats why they suggested you punch the wiring from the stations down on a new block and use cross connect oh and 66 is the only way I go when installing unless they spec otherwise (there is no school like the old school) IP: Logged |
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mminelli Member Posts: 9 |
posted June 22, 2005 06:20
I must agree that I like the 110 as well. The labeling alone makes it worthwhile. Just a quick question though...don't you hate when buisness try to take the voice cables to a patchpanel? They think it will be eaiser to maintain, it just turns into a pain in the neck! IP: Logged |
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Station Specialties Installer Posts: 129 |
posted June 22, 2005 06:30
Krone patch pannels have to be the worst. I find that 110 is far better than krone. Bix is ok and has some good advantages. But, krone when you have gravity against you the wires just don't like to stay put buy hand until you get to puching them down. One 110 you can press fit them by hand and then go back and puch them down. Krone on the other hand tends to fall out if you accidently hit the wires. IP: Logged |
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mgere Installer Posts: 43 |
posted June 22, 2005 07:59
Another vendor to keep in mind is Anixter, they are nation wide. They have never let me down. 1-800-482-1328 ask for Dave Lanstra IP: Logged |
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Coral Tech Moderator Posts: 676 |
posted June 22, 2005 18:06
KLD..FINIALLY someone that understands large switch cabling here. 66 is the way to go. I had a cabling guy the other day in a meeting try and tell be patch panels are better...I had to laugh and prompty made him look small. First the damn space that's needed and then god forbid you need to add a phone to that location you have to pull another cable or butcher the patch panels..or make some assinine hydra cable. 110 is ok...but in large switch rooms it becomes a large hairball. Off soapbox... IP: Logged |
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KLD Installer Posts: 314 |
posted June 22, 2005 18:49
And believe it or not there are places that can furnish free standing racking / CO type frames set up for 66 blocks. Try Homoco and whoever bought out Chatsworth. We used the Homoco for the multi cabinet Nortel 81 and DMS 10s. And a BIX SOC box (OSP cabinet) after even two years is worthless unless you're being paid to rehab it!!! Who wants the soap box?-------- [This message has been edited by KLD (edited June 22, 2005).] IP: Logged |
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5years&counting Moderator Posts: 685 |
posted June 22, 2005 21:29
Bought out Chatsworth? Where have I been? (perhaps under that soap box y'all keep mentioning) ------------------ | Telephone Systems, Voicemail Systems, Computer Systems, Voice & Data Cabling - Central Valley, CA IP: Logged |
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KLD Installer Posts: 314 |
posted June 23, 2005 04:58
Yeah, Five, a few years ago I went to order some racks and was told someone on the east coast had bought them ---- they still had the name at that time. Don't know who but that was about the time I got out of the cable chase and got into the management side of the business. If the name is still around, I hope the equipment was as good as before. The soap box has a lot of room under it BUT for us die hards to specified and dedicated wiring that works there's never enough room on top to pass around. Your turn ---- your box. IP: Logged |
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